‘The city’s an experiential space,’ says Alára’s manager Hunderson, a shaven-headed Haitian New Yorker who has lived in Lagos since 2018. Once the main downtown area, this district on Lagos Island has faded in looks and status yet still possesses the organic soul of the city. Read next A guide to visiting Tokyo's best Olympic venues Destinations A guide to visiting Tokyo's best Olympic venuesBut will regeneration happen in the full sense? Lagos has a habit of shaping new corners for the rich rather than improving existing areas for ordinary folk. 34 Macarthy Street, Lagos IslandITAN Test Kitchen: Chef Michael Elégbèdé elevates Nigerian cooking with dishes such as goat shank in ayamase sauce.