Almost 50 years ago, in The Tree Where Man Was Born, Peter Matthiessen wrote of the Loita Hills as ‘roadless and little known... that epic Africa of hope and innocence’. In the Loita Hills the impression is one of congestion and enclosure. Yet the same forces affect the virtually unknown Loita Hills. Dry riverbed Julien CapmeilThe black rhinoceros, once abundant across southern Kenya, is no longer found in the Loita Hills. Yet glance away from a walking Maasai for a minute and he will have disappeared over the horizon.