But its historic core, the Old City — home to around 35,000 — feels lost in time. The pilgrims’ journey ends in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre on Calvary Hill, or “Golgotha”. Only a few steps away, under a grand dome, pilgrims line up to enter the Holy Sepulchre and place a candle near the tomb of Jesus. While complete Muslim control of Jerusalem is unrealistic, many Arabs envision an independent Palestinian state, with this part of Jerusalem — East Jerusalem — as their capital. These are the homes of Jewish families staking out this bit of the Old City for their community.